What a squash

The vegetable responsible for preventing the starvation of the pilgrims during their first winter in America was the pumpkin and they are popular in Britain now, mainly associated with Hallowe’en. The pumpkin is an indelible symbol of November and is but one variety of the fruits from the great family of gourds.

Although available almost all the year round, winter squash make their ripest appearance in the early autumn. They are characterised by thick, hard skins and meaty seeds that are often wonderful for toasting. Their dense orange-yellow flesh is usually best baked or steamed, when it can be pur�ed for soups. Unlike courgettes and some other summer squashes, winter squash should not be eaten raw. Varieties include butternut, acorn, spaghetti, delicata, sweet dumpling, turban, and of course the mighty pumpkin. Most can be stored successfully, uncooked, for up to one month in the refrigerator or another cool place that's out of the sun. Choose winter squash and pumpkins that are heavy for their size, and have hard, dense, unblemished skins.

Autumn and winter squashes and pumpkins last for weeks stored in a cool dry place. Smaller squashes such as butternut, acorn and patty pan are particularly sweet and nutty – the first two are excellent sliced thinly, softened in butter in a wide pan, and then drizzled with cream and grated cheese. Finish under a hot grill.